Two 120-hole tracks with every fifth hole shaded for counting — peg with two pencil marks per player, leapfrog style, exactly like the wooden board you left at the cabin.
A cribbage board is just a counting machine, and paper counts fine. Each player uses two pencil marks as pegs: when you score, advance by marking your new position and striking the rear mark — the leapfrog that makes miscounting hard and cheating obvious, same as wooden pegs. The tracks run left to right, top row to bottom, thirty holes a row, with every fifth hole shaded so counts of five land on grey.
Six cards each; both players discard two to the dealer's crib. Play alternates cards toward a running count that may never pass 31 — pegging 2 for fifteens and thirty-ones, 2 for pairs, one per card for runs, 1 for the last card. Then hands are counted (fifteens, pairs, runs, flushes, and his nobs), the dealer counts the crib too, and the deal alternates. First past hole 120 — that is, to 121 — wins on the spot, even mid-count.
Every combination and its value is on our cribbage scoring chart — print both pages and the kitchen table is a full cribbage set minus a deck of cards.
Hole 90 is the traditional skunk line — lose without reaching it and you've been skunked, which counts as a double game in match play. Count 30 holes along the third row and pencil a flag on it; the shaded fifth holes make it easy to find.
Why two marks per player? The trailing mark proves where you scored from — it's the board's built-in audit trail.
Do you have to land exactly on 121? No — reaching or passing it wins immediately, at any point in the hand.